Oppopinions needed.

"mkbruin, Atlas VP" (mkbruin)
02/25/2016 at 08:02 • Filed to: None

Changing brake pads and not rotors. Yay or nay. Discuss.

DISCUSSION (30)

Tareim - V8 powered > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:08

if there is plenty of life left in the discs and they are not warped then there is no real need to change the discs

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:08

I thought as long as there is plenty of life left in the rotor, it was okay.

itranthelasttimeiparkedit > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:09

I probably do rotors every other time I do pads if I had to guess. If they have life left, I am good.

jariten1781 > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:09

When I had no monies I did it all the time with no deleterious effects. Now I just buy rotors because they’re not that expensive and brakes are kind of a thing where I'd rather be overly safe than 'good enough'.

Rustholes-Are-Weight-Reduction > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:11

If the thickness is above minimum spec and there is no damage to the contact surface there’s no reason to change them.

they-will-know-my-velocity > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:12

Unless they’re warped, trued down to nothing, or badly grooved, I see no reason to change them.

Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:14

If you have the rotors machined, and there’s still plenty of meat left on them, then cool. Otherwise, you’re asking for shimmy and wobble and that’s not desireable. And in many cases, the cost of machining approaches the cost of the new rotors, though sometimes, even brand new rotors have been made off shore and aren’t true when they come out of the box.

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:17

Yay if the rotors look okay, I do it all the time, never had an issue with accelerated wear stopping performance etc.

Tripper > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:23

As long as it’s not detailed in the maintenance schedule to replace both at the same time, your probably good with just pads. Both M3's required that they be replaced at the same time, then they required a limb to pay for the components. I’m not sure about my current dd (Audi), but every other car I have owned I have had the rotors resurfaced, or just slapped new pads on.

Eric @ opposite-lock.com > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:25

Yay, with caveats.

If they were stopping fine before (smooth, no pulsing, etc) you decided to change the pads, they’re fine. I don’t let people machine mine if they were smooth before.

Mind you, when they need resurfacing, I have always bought good new ones. If they warped, they’ll warp easier when they’re thinner.

functionoverfashion > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:29

Thanks, kinja. Hopefully my edit works. Here’s a good article on rotor “warp” and associated problems. Good read.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-supp…

To answer your question, I’ve replaced pads and left rotors when a pad broke or something, but usually the issue I see is that the rotors will wear out before the SECOND set of pads, so I figure, replace while I’m there and save the time going back in later.

And this talks about changing pads but leaving the rotors, and some potential issues with that:

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/P…

And, in case you’re bored, here’s another:

http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%…

McMike > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:31

If my wheel bearings were not part of the rotor, I would probably change them every other time.

Alfalfa > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:33

On most cars, the rotors have more life than the pads. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Scotchead > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 08:47

If I have no plusing, no ridges or gouges and they meet the minimum thickness plus, then I will definitely just slap pads on and go. Did that on the wife's 08 CRV at 65K, now at 148K, the pads are wearing great and still no gouges/grooves/pulsing from the front. They will get replaced this spring when I do the front pads since they are down to the minimum thickness. Why spend the smack if you don't have to?

Cé hé sin > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 09:00

I’ve had done just that and everything’s fine.

I’ve never had the discs changed and they’re up to 261,000 km now.

crowmolly > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 09:13

1.) Always replace or at least re-surface your rotors.

2.) Many parts stores don’t cut rotors anymore. Those that do (NAPA) aren’t always that much cheaper than replacement.

3.) In just about every case for a street car blanks are fine. No need to go drilled/slotted although zinc washing is sometimes cool to have.

luvMeSome142 & some Lincoln! > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 09:40

I do it all the time.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 09:54

A few manufacturers specifically say not to machine rotors and that as long as they’re above minimum spec and not warped you don’t have to replace them.

Liam Farrell > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 10:10

Ha! Get drums

I hoon, therefore I am > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 10:45

Have the rotors turned if not replacing them. It can be argued that it isn’t absolutely essential, but it’s a best practice.

Sam > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 11:06

If you've got the money, I'd say just do them simply because you will already have the wheels off. Just a convenience thing.

Mattbob > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 11:17

I will just change the pads if the rotors look in good shape. Not deep grooves, and not a major amount of wear(I judge by the lip where the pad stops making contact). If it is questionable, I dont bother getting out calipers and measuring, I just replace them.

Mattbob > Liam Farrell
02/25/2016 at 11:27

and bang on them..... all day.

Liam Farrell > Mattbob
02/25/2016 at 11:33

You're funny

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 11:57

If you’re a cheapskate and don’t care if the brakes feel smooth, just do the pads. Mind you, if your brakes currently feel smooth when you apply them, you can probably just do the pads only.

If you want brakes that last longer and are smooth when applied, get new rotors with the pads.

Some say you can get the old rotors machined... but I would only do that if the cost of new rotors was hugely more expensive than the cost of machining.

It’s also important to break in a new set up pads/rotors properly.

I would also go as far to say that getting a matched set of rotors and pads is probably a good idea... and then follow the supplier break-in instructions.

dogisbadob > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 12:02

Try to get rotors that have an ant-rust coating, like Centric Premium

mattc993 > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 12:58

Sure, all the time. Keep the old rotors if they’re in good shape (appropriate thickness, no surface deposits, no grooving).

Especially since I started driving fastish cars, if I replaced rotors every time I replaced pads I would be out a lot of money.

TheD0k_2many toys 2little time > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 13:01

Do it all the time with no measurment and had no issues every

just-a-scratch > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 16:35

The only time I ever had a (minor) problem with this was when I switched from stock to Carbotech Panther pads, and back to stock. There was some weird deposition on the rotor surface after switching back to stock pads. It never caused any noise or vibration, and there was no decrease in performance, so I just lived with it looking funny.

I say, if the rotors are in good shape, go ahead and put some new pads on 'em.

gmporschenut also a fan of hondas > mkbruin, Atlas VP
02/25/2016 at 23:16

If smooth, you might be fine just changing the pads. Read the manual first.

A lot of modern rotors are shit and disposable. I have had rotors resurfaced but that was because they were adequitley thick enough and resurfacing was 1/3 the cost of new ones. On my dd i’ve changed both so as to not worry about them because new rotors were so cheap.